To steal a line from one of my all time favorite rappers, Kanye West, "Having money is not everything, but not having it is." (I know, a lot of people aren't into Kanye like I am, but I have a wide open mind when it comes to music... he definitely has talent.)
Anyways, back on topic... Today I was driving over to 16th to slide a few with Tinch and Tim Haire, and I got to thinking, what is this thing that we all grow up wanting? It’s the dream we all chase... but when does it come true? When do you know you are living it? How do you know when it is going to happen? No one ever tells us, although I wish they would.
Well the truth of the matter is that most of us spend most of our lives always trying to get to that next level... Whether it be a newer house, a nicer car, a new log (guilty!), or just getting that promotion or better job. We seem to forget the present most of the time. I guess this was the whole message in Thomas Campbell's "The Present." I’m not saying we shouldn't be like this, because it is definitely one of the most defining characteristics that I believe in. I am just saying that maybe we should have ambition with a focus on the now. My father always told me, "Chris, don’t rush it. Do it right the first time, slow down." Funny how after 20 something years I am finally understanding his words of wisdom.
Here I am, fresh out of college, just got my degree a year early, worked my ass off since I was 12 trying to make money, sitting here, wondering what is it that I really want to do with my life... pondering that dream. But today, I realized that I am in that dream right now. I am doing the damn thing! Sure, I don’t make six figures a year; I barely make five figures it seems. I don’t drive a brand new Benz; I drive a truck that is a piece of me. Has my heart and soul in it. I don’t live in a huge mansion, I rent out an apartment. But, this is the dream... It isn't the material things that surround us, it is the good times. The stoke. The scenery. Would I like to have all the latter? Sure, don’t we all? But let us take a moment to realize just how good we all have it. We get to slide waves. We get to connect with Mother Nature on such a level that just blows my mind sometimes. We all want more when we should really want just enough. Just enough money to let us be happy. Just enough pain to make us feel human. Just enough fives, heels, and big old 10s to keep us stoked and ready for more. This should be our motto.
Today was a good day (and who knows, I might even go out for a third session this evening). I probably surfed around 5 hours, watched Picaresque around 10 times (my new favorite movie), and I got a lot of stuff done that needed to get done. How about we all just take a breather from the rat race we call life, and just smile... grab a log the next time you get a chance, and let loose...
Curl Toes... It is quiet possibly the best feeling on earth!
Kent Lovelace as Sisyphus 1953 - 2017
3 months ago